Exploring the Bay of Fundy and the Fossil Coast

Would you like to walk on the ocean floor?  That can happen along the Fundy Coast in Nova Scotia. Along Highway 2 between Truro and Parrsboro is some of the most scenic areas of the coast and a dramatic spot to camp.  At Five Islands the water recedes nearly a mile at ebb tide and you can literally walk on the ocean floor. The world's most extreme tides rise and fall twice daily along the Fundy Coast.

The Bay of Fundy at Five Islands Campground, NS.  The difference in the
water level between high tide and low tide can be as much as 40 feet

Low tide.  The two empty sites on the row closest to the bay are the ones
we would later occupy.  The tidal changes on the Bay of Fundy are among
the greatest in the world   

Roughly the same view, at high tide. Now you can see our trailers are parked on the
front row. More water flows into and out of the Bay of Fundy each day than the
volume of water flowing down all of the rivers in North America, combined.

Five Islands Lighthouse has been moved five different times.  Four
times were due to coastal erosion.  The final time was when the 
light was decommissioned and moved to its present location in a park. 

One nice thing about travelling with friends is that you can do things together but when interests diverge, or there simply isn't enough time to do everything, you can explore independently. Guy and Lil spent a day visiting a cheese factory and the Anne Murray Centre (Canadian recording artist whose hits included "Snowbird" and "You Needed Me") at Springdale while Mike and I explored the fossil coast.  (Yes, Dr. Momburg, your courses in college have had a lasting influence on me.) 

This fence caught my fancy. It is made of wooden ironing boards
painted in pastel colors.  Mike said it reminded him of crayons.

Continuing west from Five Islands is the quaint town of Parrsboro, the main town on the north shore of Minas Basin.  In 1984 dinosaur footprints were found in this area. The tiniest dinosaur prints ever discovered are, in fact, from this area.  The discovery of the oldest dinosaur fossils in Canada led to the establishment of the Fundy Geological Museum.  While it is a very small museum, it contains significant archaeological finds.

Parrsboro was once a major port on the Minas Basin. National Geographic
called the town "...the prettiest place, more than picturesque..."  

Over-sized Adirondack chairs on the "beach"
- mostly rocks - at Parrsboro harbor

Parrsboro is the site of Ottawa House, the summer home of Sir Charles
Tupper, the "Father of Confederation."  This 1932 Buick coupe, on
display in the town park, is from the Ottawa House collection.

Coal train, on display at Parrsboro's town park, was once used to
haul coal from the mines at Springhill to the port at Parrsboro

Mastodon tooth in the Fundy Geological Museum, about
65,000 years old, found in the vicinity of the Strait of
Canso, near Cape Breton Island

In 1984, Eldon George, an amateur geologist, found this dinosaur foot-
print, the smallest ever found. George has been interviewed by the
Christian Science Monitor, the New York Times, and National Geographic.  

Boats belong in the water, not in a field...even a field as
beautiful and pastoral as this field of lupines

From Parrsboro we followed the coast road through the hamlets of Advocate Harbor, Eatonville and Shulie for several hours to the community of Joggins and a UNESCO Heritage Site on Chignecto Bay.  Situated some 43 miles (70 km) from Cape Chignecto and 22 miles (35 km) southwest of Amherst, Joggins Fossil Cliffs opened as a Heritage Site in 2008.  It has a large curated collection of Coal Age fossils dating back 300 million years.  The world's oldest reptile was discovered at Joggins.  One of the highlights of the museum is the scheduled guided tours on the beach to view the fossils still embedded in the cliffs. This site is the world's most complete record of the Coal Age.

In Advocate Harbor, we saw this crew of highway construction workers
apparently meeting to go to work.  Note the tourist information building
to the left.  It was closed - OK, unoccupied, - when we were there. 

Entrance to the Joggins Fossil Center (or "Centre" according
to their sign), a UNESCO World Heritage site

Descending to the ocean floor to view the fossil cliffs looked a little bit
daunting at first, but it wasn't too bad.  It was, however, pretty chilly.

These are the fossilized tracks of a a giant centipede-like creature

Petrified tree trunk located deep inside the cliffs, exposed
over time by erosion and mudslides. 

With the dramatic natural beauty and astounding geologic finds of the Fossil Coast in the rear-view mirror, we rounded the east end of the Bay of Fundy and re-entered New Brunswick, heading toward the quintessentially cute town of St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, located on Passamaquoddy Bay.  It offers history, architecture, an incredibly high "cute factor" and, for your shopping pleasure, darling, unique shops.  This lovely town has long been a favorite summer retreat for affluent Canadians and Americans. We happened to be in town on July 1, which is Canada Day (think Fourth of July) so it was quite bustling over the weekend with a parade, car show and street vendors.

On a misty, foggy morning, as we were leaving Nova Scotia
and heading to New Brunswick, we were passed by this
truck hauling lobster traps

Bagpipers play in the Canada Day Parade in St. Andrews-by-the-Sea.
The town's population is around 2,000 but there must have been at
least double that number along the parade route.

Of the town's 550 buildings, 280 were built before 1880.  The St. Andrews Blockhouse is a National Historic Site.  Local residents raised funds to build a series of blockhouses along the bay during the War of 1812 when Great Britain and the U.S. were at arms, to prevent a possible invasion by American troops.  Another historic and charming spot is the Tudor-style Fairmont Algonquin Hotel. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1889, the hotel underwent an extensive $50 million renovation, completed just two years ago.  This resplendent  resort also boasts a world class par 71 golf course with unparalleled views of the sea and surrounding countryside.

Colorful murals decorate many of the buildings in St. Andrews.
This is the drug store on Water Street.  Note the mural is
painted to resemble a jig-saw puzzle piece.

The town's official name is St. Andrews.  Tourism marketing
agencies coined the name St. Andrews-by-the-Sea years ago.  

Fishing boat tied up at the St. Andrews pier on Canada Day

There were 12 of these block Houses built along the Bay of
Fundy.  A small four-man detachment was assigned to each
one. A cannon on the top floor could be fired out the window. 

The gun ports are probably 2' X 3' and low to the floor for the
small cannon inside. Mike is kneeling on the floor.

Sailboats in the harbor at St. Andrews. The strip of land and
trees visible in the far distance is part of the State of Maine 

Rear of the Algonquin Hotel.  The Tudor archway spanning the
road connects the original hotel to a new addition added during
the $50 million renovation of the property several years ago.

Front of the hotel, taken from a second-floor balcony. The original
hotel is actually built in a long, gracious curve, facing the sea and
and on a hill overlooking the town of St. Andrews

Three blocks from the hotel is Kingsbrae Garden, considered one of the ten best public gardens in Canada.  It opened in 1998 and encompasses 27 acres (11 hectares) that showcase some 2,500 varieties  of trees, shrubs, and plants.  There are numerous natural vignettes including a white rose garden, a cottage garden, a "scents and sensitivity" garden, a "bird and butterfly" garden, and more.  Every view offers lovely vistas.

A "formal garden" at Kingsbrau Garden

Red Maple trees in the center, surrounded by greenery
makes a serene setting

The "Scents and Sensibility" garden

Beginning July 1, and throughout the growing season, 1,000
Ladybugs are released in the gardens each day, to naturally
control aphids and other pests that can damage the plants

A short drive from St. Andrews is Minister's Island, the site of historic Covenhoven.  The island is accessible at low tide by driving or walking over a half-mile (750 meter) sandbar; otherwise, it can only be reached by boat.  The first structure the visitor sees is the Stone Cottage built by Rev. Samuel Andrews in 1790, giving the island its name. 

The half-mile long "road" to the island, passable at low tide.  At high
tide, water covers the gravel bar to a depth of 14 feet (4.25 m)

Digging for crabs at low tide, just off the "road" to Minister's Island

The original stone cottage, built on the island by Reverend
Samual Andrews in 1790...over 225 years ago.

Covenhoven was designed by architect Edward Maxwell and built in the 1890's as a summer estate for Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, a railroad baron.  Van Horne rose from telegraph operator in Illinois to become President of the Canadian Pacific Railway. He was the Chairman of the Board of Canadian Pacific from 1899 until 1915.  The house has fifty rooms, eleven bathrooms, and eleven fireplaces and gives a glimpse into the Gilded Age.  Restoration is ongoing.  The property also includes greenhouses, a windmill, a caretaker's cottage and other structures. The island became a Provincial Historic Site in 1977. 

Covenhoven, circa 1895.  Photo by D. Will MacKay
from the collection of the Charlotte County Archives.

Covenhoven today.  The home is built of red sandstone quarried on
the island.  Originally quite small at 80 feet (24 m) square, Van Horne
had it enlarged several times over the years, to its present size.

The Fireplace in the front entrance parlor.  The painting over
the mantle is an original by Van Horne, an avid painter.
Some 80 pieces of his artwork hang in the house.

Dining room. Van Horne entertained lavishly.  This room, as was the
entire house, was furnished in the style of the late Edwardian period.

The dining room cabinets contain at least a half-dozen sets of china
in various patterns, for every meal and every occasion.

The home contains 11 bedrooms.  Because the island was accessible
only at low tide, visitors often spent the night at the house.

The Covenhoven property also includes a barn built to house the owner's prized Clydesdale horses and Dutch Belted cows.  It was built by unemployed shipbuilders and the craftsmanship is superb.  Frankly, I found the barn more architecturally interesting than the house!  Three stories tall, the barn includes a freight elevator.  Each floor covers 8,300 square feet (771 square meters). The barn cost $20,000 to build in 1898.  It is currently undergoing a five-year, 1.5 million dollar restoration. 

Phase 1 of the barn restoration will be a $260,000, 2-year 
restoration of the roofs and ventilators on the twin 16-foot
diameter silos, which can hold a total of 110 tons of fodder.

The windmill provided running water to the home, long before running
water was common in homes. The small structure is a natural gas
well, which provided gas in the home for lights and cooking.

While at St. Andrews we had the occasion to visit the nearby town of St. Stephen - or rather the emergency room at Charlotte County Hospital.  That stop was NOT part of our itinerary.  Our friend Lilian had a minor but painful mishap that resulted in a broken toe.  The original plan was for the four of us to meet mutual friends in Lake George, New York but on the advice of the doctor, Guy and Lil  decided to head back to Chelmsford while Mike and I continued on to New York.

Dramatic costal tides, geologic treasures, a charming resort town, and a trip to the emergency room...such is the stuff of Road Stories. 

This MG TD was in the Canada Day Parade and car show in St. Andrews.
It and Yvonne are the same age, and both still look pretty damn good.