Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Cradle On The Waves

Prince Edward  Island.  The name alone conjures up the image of a bucolic world of red bluffs separating a cobalt blue sea and lush green meadows sprinkled with swaying lavender lupines.  Synonymous with this Eastern Canadian province is the red-headed, pig-tailed little girl wearing a white apron - Anne of Green Gables.  Anne has been a friend to thousands of young girls since Lucy Maud Montgomery created her in 1908.  (For those not familiar with the story, an aging brother and sister who run a farm on the island intend to adopt an orphan boy to help with the farm work.  Instead, Anne, a precocious 11-year-old girl is sent to the farm and becomes an integral part of their lives and of the island.) Prince Edward Island has much to offer but the Anne of Green Gables "experience" is the centerpiece and is a must-see.

Red bluffs and a cobalt blue sea...this beautiful scene was right at
the edge of our campground at Prince Edward Island National Park
 
PEI is famous for its potatoes, grown among lush green
fields bordered by lupines
Crossing the Confederation Bridge is, in itself, an experience.  Built in 1997 at a cost of one billion Canadian dollars, this 8 mile (13 km) causeway connects New Brunswick with Prince Edward Island. The opening of the bridge offered a new option, in addition to daily ferry service, to reach or leave the island.  Though we spent most of our time traversing the coast and visiting the sights, there are a variety of activities to be enjoyed.  For the golfing enthusiast there are over thirty courses.  If bicycling or hiking is more your style, there are over 174 miles (280 km) of trails and paths.

Crossing the Confederation Bridge. There is no toll as you drive onto the island;
you pay the toll (61$ C, about $48 US for our truck and RV) as you leave.
Prince Edward Island National Park offers full hook-ups and a great location for RV'ers. There are several entrances to the park and the park actually encompasses two separate parcels of land 15 miles (24 km) apart. The park is undergoing extensive work on the infrastructure...grading and resurfacing roads, etc.  In addition, many of the sites in Cavendish Campground, where we stayed, are undergoing renovation.  Make sure your GPS is leading you to a completed section!

Our full hook-up camp site at Prince Edward Island National Park.
Many of the sites in this park are undergoing extensive renovation. 
We started our immersion into Anne Shirley's - better known as Anne of Green Gables - world with a lively musical, Anne and Gilbert, which traces the young woman's courtship with Gilbert Blythe. The actors and music were engaging. The play was staged in Charlottetown, the oldest and largest urban area on PEI.  Charlottetown is noted as the "Birthplace of the Confederation" because in 1864  it was the site of the meeting that led to Canada's Confederation three years later. On a lighter note, just outside of town is Cows Creamery Factory. The factory tour was limited to three viewing windows (and when we visited, they were finished making ice cream for the day) but the ice cream is fabulous! Especially fresh wild blueberry...yum.
Cows Ice Cream is found only on Prince Edward Island.  This
store was located at Cavendish.
The bottom scoop is Wild Blueberry, Yvonne's
favorite of all of the Cows Ice Cream flavors
The Cows store on the harbor at Charlottetown.  Yep, we tried it in a
a number of different locations, and it was delicious at all of them.
Very close to PEI National Park is the town of Cavendish, the heart of the Green Gables properties.  Lucy Maud Montgomery, the creator of Anne Shirley, came to Cavendish to live with her maternal grandparents at twenty-one months of age, after her mother's untimely death.  Alexander and Lucy Macneill's farmhouse is no longer standing but many old trees and vistas can be recognized from the author's descriptions.  Anne of Green Gables, as well as other novels, were written here at the Macneill Homestead.
Lucy Maud Montgomery's endearing and enduring novel,
first published 1908. This edition by Nimbus Publishing, 1998.
Cover design by Joan Sinclair, cover photo by John Sylvester.
Cavendish Post Office.  L.M. Montgomery's grandparents ran the post office
out of their kitchen for almost 40 years. The original Macneill homestead no
longer stands. This house, from the same period, was moved to Cavendish.
L.M. Montgomery's grandparents, the Macneills.  She lived with them from the age
of 21 months until she was 36 years old.  No house stands on the property now.
These original items are located in a book store near where the house stood.
Though she never lived there, Lucy Montgomery used the farmhouse owned by cousins of her grandfather as the inspiration for her setting for Anne of Green Gables.  Today the green-and-white house is furnished in late nineteenth century style.  Various rooms have been re-created as they are described in the novels.  It feels like you have just stepped into the pages of her books.  It was fun to watch little girls in pigtails who were visiting, pointing out details such as the pattern in a rag rug or an amethyst broach sitting on a bureau that they recalled from reading the book(s).
This is the main entrance to the Green Gables house.  The house,
owned by cousins of Montgomery's grandfather, served as the
inspiration for Anne Shirley's house
The "Green Gables" house was originally built in 1831. Over
the years, modifications were made; the last was right at
the end of WW I, when 3 additional bedrooms were added.
The parlor of the "Green Gables" house
The pantry of the "Green Gables" house
The distinctive "New Waterloo No. 2 Cast Iron Stove"
patented by Fire King Ovens of Sackville, New Brunswick.
Sewing room, "Green Gables" house
About 7 miles (11 km) away is the Lucy Maud Montgomery birthplace, Clifton Corner, which overlooks New London Harbor.  Montgomery was born here in 1874.
Lucy Maud Montgomery's birthplace at Clifton Corner
Shadow box with an elaborate floral wreath made of human hair.
These were popular during Victorian times. For more information
about these pieces, see our blog dated August 30, 2013.
Memorabilia about Lucy Maud Montgomery's life and writings.
Kitchen of the house at Clifton Corner.  Note the stove, similar
to the one in the "Green Gables" house.
Portrait of the author.  Year unknown
L.M. Montgomery's bedroom at Clifton Corner, where she lived
until her mother died when the child was 21 months old.
Front entrance of the Clifton Corner home.  Montgomery's father continued
to live there after the child was sent to live with her grandparents in Cavendish.
Some 21 miles (32 km) west of Cavendish is Malpeque where the "Anne of Green Gables Museum" at Silver Bush is located.  Silver Bush was once the home of Montgomery's aunt and uncle and she stayed in the house at various times.  The parlor of the house is where she chose to be married in 1911.
Silver Bush, home of L.M. Montgomery's aunt and uncle.  When she
returned to PEI to visit after her marriage, she stayed in this house.
This is the bedroom that L.M. Montgomery used when she returned to visit PEI
The parlor at Silver Bush, where Lucy Maud Montgomery married
Reverend Ewan Macdonald, a Presbyterian minister, in 1911
This china cabinet was originally in her grandparent's home.
Montgomery used to talk daily to the two girls she saw reflected
in the glass, "Katie" on the left and "Lucy" on the right
The "crazy quilt" made by Lucy Maud Montgomery on display at Silver Bush
The barn at Silver Bush.  This property was first homesteaded by
Montgomery's relatives in 1776, and is still owned by the same family
This church in Cavendish was where Montgomery first met her future
husband, Reverend Ewan Macdonald, when he was the pastor there.
Returning to Cavendish, another stop can be made at Avonlea Village of Green Gables. There are two original buildings that have been relocated to this spot:  the church that Montgomery attended and a one-room schoolhouse where she taught.  Avonlea is a commercial endeavor where raspberry cordial and other treats and souvenirs can be purchased.

This church, which Montgomery occasionally attended,
was moved some 20 miles in three sections to Avonlea
Village and is in the process of being restored
Beautiful wisteria vines in Avonlea Village
One of two "original" buildings that were moved to Avonlea
Village, this is the school where Lucy Maud Montgomery
once taught.  It is now being used as a store.
Yvonne and Anne Shirley - Anne of Green Gables - at
Avonlea Village
We had a wonderful time traveling and exploring with our
friends from Chelmsford, Ontario, Liliane and Guy
Need a break from all things Anne?  There are plenty of options. In Summerside, the second-largest city on PEI, there is Spinnaker's Landing, a series of cute stores meant to feel like a seaside fishing village. During July and August the College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts (yes, a school for bagpipers...) hosts concerts in the town.  On my list of places to visit on our next trip to the island are Georgetown and Victoria, two small villages with historic Victorian town centers.

A picturesque fishing village on the north shore of Prince Edward Island
One of the many beautiful churches that dot the landscape
Marshmallow farm?  No, baled hay wrapped to keep it dry.
Lupines line the roads across the island
Vibrant colors add to the charm of Prince Edward Island
The  "Points East Coastal Drive", 233 miles (375 km), traverses along the north and east coasts of PEI  hugging the coastline.  Actually, "hugging" doesn't mean there are coastal views along the entire route.  There are forests and farms as well as fishing villages and coastal parks.  At the tip of the peninsula is East Point Lighthouse, one of fifty lighthouses on the island. The lighthouse was built in 1867 and tours are possible. Continuing along the coast, 8 miles (13 km) from Souris is Basin Head Provincial Park, the site of a unique phenomenon. The beach, which is accessible via a boardwalk, is noted for its "singing sand".  Some scientists believe this rare singing sound is produced by the sand's high silica content....or maybe it's just magic.


Fishing boats in the harbor at Naufrage.  We talked to two fishermen
who had just unloaded their catch. They had a 5-gallon bucket filled
with half-pound lobsters that they were taking home for dinner.
Lobster traps.  Many of the wooden traps are being replaced with steel
traps, and wooden ones are for sale all over PEI.  I almost was the
proud owner of one, but couldn't figure out how to get it in the truck.
Mike looking out over the lobster fishing fleet
The lighthouse at East Point, 64 feet tall, built in 1867.
Note that it is octagonal. Lighthouses built after Confederation
were 4-sided because they were cheaper to build.
The "singing sands."  If you sort of shuffle your feet while walking
on this beach, you really do hear what sounds like music.
Our long odyssey around the north and east coasts was topped off with one of PEI's famous lobster dinners when we reached the village of Cardigan. We were fortunate to have dinner here as the restaurant had just opened the previous day for a special group dinner. In fact, the proprietor asked if we minded having our picture taken as the first customers of the season.  For $29.00 Canadian we feasted on seafood chowder (the best of the entire trip), salad, a one-pound lobster, corn on the cob, potatoes (PEI potatoes are renowned throughout Canada), homemade rolls and fresh blueberry cobbler for dessert.  All of that plus good friends and a spectacular view of the bay from our table...a great way to end the day.
The main attraction - Yvonne's lobster at Cardigan
The view out the window from our table at the lobster supper
at Cardigan.  It doesn't get much better than this.
No part of PEI is over 10 miles (16 km) from the coast and never over 500 feet (153.8 meters) above sea level.  PEI is about the size of Delaware with 2,184 square miles (5,656 square km).  Starting with the first inhabitants, the Mi'kmaq people, who called the island Epekwitk, meaning "cradle on the waves",  to the colonization by the French in 1603 (Ile Saint-Jean), to the British rule in 1763, to the creation of the Dominion of Canada in 1867, there is so much to see and understand about Prince Edward Island's history and culture.
Along the harbor at Charlottetown, we found these giant numbers
denoting 2016, the perfect place for a kid to get his picture taken
Boats bob gently in their slips in the harbor at Charlottetown

Our trip to Canada was spectacular, and travelling with our good friends from Ontario was a real pleasure.  I'm so glad that they were a part of our ROAD STORIES.

Prince Edward Island, as idyllic as you might imagine



"There is nothing that keeps its youth, so far as I know, but a tree and truth."

~ Lucy Maud Montgomery









Friday, June 3, 2016

At the Intersection of Travel and Adventure

We probably don't remember our first steps - our first "independent" mode of travel - but likely it is recorded somewhere in a sepia-toned photograph or a grainy home movie.  Most of us can and do remember other forms of transportation from our youth:  Roller skates, Radio Flyer wagons, bicycles, and most significantly, our first car.  It gave us a profound sense of freedom and an urge - and the ability - to travel.  I still have the first car that I ever bought.  That Inca yellow MGB and I are becoming classics together.   And that got me to thinking about all the various modes of transportation that Mike and I (or I, on my own or with my parents) have experienced.  They are many and varied.
Mike (about a year old) and his brother Chris, (about three-
and-a-half) in front of their parents' house, c. 1950.  
Mike says he doesn't remember that wagon.
Bicycles parked in front of Fort Pulaski National Monument on
on Tybee Island, GA in the spring of 2013.  Construction of 

the fort began in 1829 but it was not completed until 1845

As a kid, I recall Rex and Damascus, two gentle horses that were stabled at my maternal grandparents' farm.  They added a thrill to my weekends.  Growing up on a farm, Mike remembers riding with a neighboring farmer who, even in the 1950s, drove a wagon pulled by a pair of Missouri mules.  Animals are still part of travel and adventure.  A romantic carriage ride through the Chicago Loop in the dead of winter or a carriage tour of Charleston at the first blush of spring offer more than just sight-seeing.  They provide a whole different glimpse of the cities.  In Ireland Mike and I had the opportunity to ride in a traditional jaunting car (or courting wagon) pulled by a high-stepping horse.  Other cultures offer some unique opportunities.

Passing one of the mansions along the Battery on a tour of historic
Charleston, SC in the fall of 2014, our carriage meets one from 
one of the other tour operators, going in the opposite direction
Mike prepares to ride a camel during our trip to 
Morocco in 1993
Yvonne astride a camel during a trip to Egypt 
with her parents in 1988.  The 
Pyramids of Cheops are in the background
Riding in a ox cart near Siem Reap, Cambodia in 2011
Riding on an elephant near Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe in 2014

Bustling urban areas where streets turn into mazes sometimes require small vehicles with daredevil (albeit talented) drivers to navigate crowed cityscapes.  Pedi-cabs in Vietnam and China share the streets with thousands of motorized vehicles and pedestrians.  In Cambodia, the "tuk-tuk" drivers all seemingly race each other from place to place, and in New Deli, India's version of the "tuk-tuks" careen around corners of narrow streets lined with vendors' stalls filled with vibrant material, glimmering silver, and pungent spices.

Tuk-tuk parked on the street in Siem Reap, Cambodia
A tuk-tuk driver relaxes in the seat of the cart while
waiting for passengers in front of one of the temples
in the Angkor Wat Temple Complex in Cambodia
Yvonne riding in a pedi-cab in Hanoi, Vietnam in 2011
Yvonne rode in these colorful little vehicles in Delhi, India
in 2010.  Although they look nothing like the conveyances
in Cambodia, these are also called tuk-tuks
The streetcars of San Francisco, subways in Washington D.C., or the "L" in Chicago are not only practical for quickly moving about the city but also provide a glimpse into and a sense of the communities through which they travel.  The metro in Paris and the tube in London are practically cities unto themselves, with denizens who spend a large portion of their lives there.   Other specialized vehicles, whether the iconic black London taxi or a safari-outfitted Toyota Land Cruiser become an integral part of the journey.

The iconic London taxi on Mike's first trip to England in 1984.
The London Taxi Company, which built the cabs for 60+ years
was rescued from bankruptcy by a Chinese auto maker in 2013
We toured Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia in these specially-
equipped Toyota Land Cruisers in 2014
In Kenya in 2008, our small group of ten toured game preserves
across the country in these two Toyota vans that allowed you to
stand up to photograph animals 
The grill of each Land Cruiser was fitted with a folding table.  On
safari, the tables were used to serve coffee and tea during morning
breaks, and wine and beer during evening "sun-setter" happy hours

The romance of the rails!  Historic trains have the ability to move you not only forward but also backwards in time. The Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in Colorado places you squarely in the golden era of cowboys and the westward expansion in search of silver.  West   Virginia offers a number of historic trains including the Cass Scenic Railroad that transport you back to the height of the mining era.  In Wales, the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railway takes you into the middle of coal and shale beds.  Ride the Amtrak Southwest Chief from Kansas City to Albuquerque for magnificent  vistas of plains and deserts from the dome cars.  The Alaska Railroad trains that ply the route from Anchorage to Seward cater to visitors. This is the only train we've been on that stopped and backed up to make sure all the tourists got to see the black bears forging in a meadow alongside the tracks.  

Once in a lifetime, you get to experience what we've termed a "Cusco moment."  On a trip to Peru, we descended through the Andes Mountains from Machu Picchu to Cusco, on a night with a full moon.  As we rounded a mountain on one of the many switch-backs on the descent, we were exactly at the height of the rising moon, and our first glimpse of it was right outside the window of our coach - close enough, it seemed, to reach out and touch it.  Everybody on the train was in awe, and, literally, a hush fell over the entire train car at the magnificence of the moment.  Even though we weren't able to get our cameras out quickly enough to capture it, it was one of those fleeting moments that stays with you forever.  

Still on our bucket list is the Orient Express and the Trans-Siberian Railway, but we have savored a wonderful variety of train experiences.

The Alaska Railroad, running south from Anchorage to Seward, along
Turnabout Bay.  Because the railroad still has a lot of manual track
switches, trains are limited to a maximum speed of 49 MPH
Yvonne's parents, Tracy and Dorothy, joined us for an afternoon
train ride aboard the St Louis Iron Mountain & Southern Railway
in Jackson, MO in 2015
We spent a fun Sunday afternoon in May 2015 riding the historic
Durbin & Greenbriar Valley Railroad in the mountains near Elkins, WV
The Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway has been operating since 1889
climbing over 14,000 feet from the town of Manitou Springs to the top
of Pike's Peak, at times on grades of over 16%.  We last rode it in 2015
Also opened in 1889 was the Phillips-Sprague Coal Mine in Beckley, WV.
Now known as the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine, it is open to the public
for tours.  We took the tour and rode the mine train in May 2015.

One may not think of aerial trams as "traveling", but gently swaying in a gondola from a cable hundreds of feet above the landscape certainly offers unique vantage points.  Whether it is at Mt. Titlis (yes, we did buy the T-shirt) in Switzerland or Caracas, Venezuela or Dalat, Vietnam, or Sandia Peak in Albuquerque or the Royal Gorge in Colorado, tramways are always an adventure.
We rode the tram up Sandia Peak while attending the
Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta in 2012.  Warm and sunny
at the base, it was cold and windy on top of the mountain
We rode this tram in Vietnam in 2011.  It carried us from the
lovely French-influenced city of Dalat to a beautiful Buddhist
Temple and Monastery high in the mountains
The romantic image of Rick (Humphrey Bogart) saying goodbye to Ilsa (Ingrid Bergman) as she boards the midnight flight from Casablanca has been replaced by long lines culminating in a TSA screening.  There are still a few exceptions, and nothing says "adventure" like carrying your own suitcase across the tarmac and walking up the outside staircase to board your flight.  We've experienced the thrill and adventure that a jet-way just can't offer, in places around the globe. 

Our plane waits at the end of a dirt runway in the Okavongo Delta
of Botswana in 2014.  We had flown in from Zambia, and spent
three days in a tented camp in the Delta.
Boarding the plane to leave the Delta. Most of the pilots were R.A.F. fliers
who had left the service.  They all appeared to be in their mid-twenties
Flying from Livingstone, Zambia to Lufupa Tented Camp in Kafue
National Park, Zambia.  Once airborne, the pilot let Mike take the
controls for most of the 2 1/2 hour flight
Arriving at Kafue National Park, we had a welcoming party...a herd of elephants
ambling across the dirt landing strip.  Two Land Cruisers from the tented
camp, that had come to pick us up, had to move them off so we could land.
After unloading our gear, our pilot got a five-gallon "jerry can" of
gas out of a shack at the end of the airstrip and stood on top of the
wing of his plane to re-fuel it for his flight back to Livingstone
A group, including Yvonne, preparing to lift off just as
dawn was breaking, to fly over the Pushkar Camel Fair
in India in 2010
Mike was in one of two balloons that lifted off in the pre-dawn
darkness for a spectacular dawn flight over the Maasai Mara National
Reserve in Kenya in 2008.  He took this picture of the other balloon

Stories of the sea and of some of the greatest rivers of the world will be the topic of a future edition of our blog.  

"Travel" can encompass a variety of situations and invoke a number of emotions.  But where "travel" and "adventure" intersect, that's where you'll find your best Road Stories.


You never forget your first love or your first car...
and guess which one I still have.  1979 MGB in
Inca Yellow, parked at my Mom and Dad's farm