Road Stories: Steeped in History and Decked Out in Her Christmas Finery

November found us in Charleston, South Carolina hosting a FROG Rally at the Holiday Festival of Lights at James Island County Park. We convinced mom and dad to accompany us as we thought they would enjoy the Christmas lights as well as the history and beauty that Charleston has to offer. Driving through the Smoky Mountains, the trees were still showing off their fall colors. The weather in Charleston decided to break records for low temperatures on a couple of nights that we were there. One could practically see the palm trees shivering as the low night temperatures dipped to 24 degrees. The previous low was 27 degrees, set in 1949. The daytime temperatures were more moderate mid-50s. It was a bit crisp but the sky was a magnificent clear robin’s egg blue most days.

The beautiful Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge over the Cooper River on a
perfect fall day. The bridge links Charleston and Mt. Pleasant, SC

Charleston is an elegant city. Its location at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper rivers established its early importance as a port city. Indigo and, later, rice plantations were integral to its thriving economy. At the time of the American Revolution, the Low Country area of South Carolina was the second-wealthiest region in the Colonies. From its earliest days, not only was it an economic center, but it was a cultural hub as well.

The Old Exchange Building, c. 1767. Here, the Declaration of Independence was
first read for South Carolinians. Oddly, here, too, slaves were bought and sold.

Following our carriage tour of historic Charleston, the FROGS gathered on the steps of
the United States Customs House (circa 1853) to wait for our bus to Patriot's Point

The first postage stamps in the U.S. were issued in South Carolina in 1847.
Two 5-cent 1847 stamps were required to mail this letter 300 miles

Charleston is a city that can be enjoyed on a carriage tour of the historic district, or by taking advantage of the free “trolley” system. But it is also a delightful place to meander on foot through charming Victorian neighborhoods or visit impressive churches or quaint shops. The old City Market offers a variety of wares including the iconic sweet grass baskets. There are many fine restaurants that offer wonderful seafood and Low Country cuisine.

The carriage drivers must stop at the little white shed and pick up a route
assignment from the police. Routes are assigned randomly to spread the
carriages out around the city and keep them from jamming up the streets.

Pineapples adorn many homes and other buildings.
The pineapple is a symbol meaning "welcome"

Open porches had "formal" doors to the street. Even if the family was sitting
on the open porch, a closed door signified that they were not accepting callers

A formal, fenced garden behind a Charleston home

Window box full of flowers on one of the homes along "Rainbow Row", so named
because all of the row homes are painted in varying pastel colors

Just northwest of Charleston on South Carolina Highway 61 are three significant plantations open to the public: Drayton Hall (1738-1742), Middleton Place and Magnolia Plantation. All are spectacular. Magnolia Plantation has the oldest public gardens in the United States - some sections of the gardens are over 325 years old. The gardens have been open to the public since 1870. Mike and I had an opportunity to visit the plantation house and gardens in April 2013 on our first RV trip to Charleston. The spring flowers were a riot of pinks and purples. We especially enjoyed the Audubon Swamp. There are acres of murky black water covered with cypress and tupelo gum trees. A unique system of boardwalks, bridges and dikes allow the visitor to get within a few feet of egrets, heron and other nesting waterfowl. Alligators lazily sun themselves.

The gardens at Magnolia Plantation, taken on our visit in April 2013

Great Egrets nesting in the Audubon Swamp at Magnolia Plantation, April 2013

An alligator suns himself on a man-made wooden ramp in Audubon
Swamp at Magnolia Plantation, taken in April 2013

On this fall’s trip we had the opportunity to visit Boone Hall Plantation, located on Long Point Road in Mt. Pleasant, eight miles north of Charleston. Boone Hall has an interesting pedigree. It was established in 1681 by Major John Boone, an Englishman. The plantation passed through several generations of the Boone family and then several other owners before being acquired by Thomas Stone, a retired Canadian Ambassador, in 1935. A year later, wanting a more imposing home on the plantation, the Stones constructed a 10,000 square foot Georgian Revival-style mansion, replacing the wooden plantation house (the last in a series of farm homes that had stood on the property over the years). The 1936 house was built using brick that had been made at the brickworks on the plantation. Bricks from that same brickyard had been used in the construction of many buildings in downtown Charleston as well as in the construction of Ft. Sumter.

The 10,000 square foot Georgian Revival plantation home
at Boone Hall Plantation was built in 1936

In 1940 the property was purchased by Prince Dimitri Djordjade, an exiled Russian prince, who kept the plantation for fifteen years. He sold it to the McRae family, who bought it for the express purpose of opening it to the public, which they did in 1957. Their venture has been successful as today Boone Hall is the most photographed plantation in the United States. The ABC TV mini-series North and South, and the movies Queen and The Notebook have been filmed at Boone Hall, and the house and grounds have also been seen in NBC’s Days of Our Lives.

The most impressive feature of the property is the half-mile Avenue of Oaks. Nearly 100 Live Oak trees were planted in1743 and today dominate the landscape. The most interesting feature is the series of nine original brick slave cabins that now house an exhibit of black history in America. Informative and entertaining Gullah presentations are given twice daily.

The Avenue of Oaks leading into Boone Hall Plantation

Original slave cabins at Boone Hall Plantation date from the late 18th century

Sweet grass baskets are still woven throughout the Low Country, including at Boone
Hall Plantation, and are for sale at the slave cabin in which they are made

This woman, whose ancestors were slaves in Charleston, told us about the
Gullah culture and language, and recounted some old Gullah folk tales

Another significant landmark is Fort Sumter. Originally it was a part of a series of costal fortifications built by the United States after the War of 1812. It was still unfinished in 1860 when on December 26, six days after South Carolina succeeded from the Union, Major Robert Anderson moved his 85-man garrison from Fort Moultrie to Fort Sumter, feeling it would be easier to defend. The first shots of the Civil War were fired at 4:30 a.m. on April 12, 1861. Fort Sumter was shelled into submission and Major Anderson surrendered the fort to the Confederates. Ironically, no lives were lost in this first battle of the Civil War. The fort was transferred to the National Park Service in 1948. Today a half hour boat ride takes visitors out to see this historic landmark.

The Spirit of the Low Country took us to and from Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter as you approach by boat

A Confederate shell still embedded in the wall of the fort

A cannon still stands guard over the entrance to Charleston Harbor, which was the
original purpose for the fort when it was built

This is the actual flag that flew over the fort on April 12, 1861. People say it has
a "ghost" image of a Union Soldier. Look closely to the right of the center star

If you look closely at the center star, you can see his cap, his face and beard,
a unit patch on his right shoulder, and a row of buttons down his coat

Highlighting more recent military history is Patriot’s Point. At Patriot’s Point visitors can tour the World War II aircraft carrier USS Yorkton and the Congressional Medal of Honor Museum, located on her hanger deck. The USS Laffey, a World War II destroyer, and the diesel submarine Clagmore, commissioned shortly after the end of World War II can be toured. The Clagmore is the only Guppy III-class submarine preserved in the U.S. Patriot’s Point also features a true-to-scale replica of a Vietnam Navy Support Base. The Huey gunship and other helicopters, the Mark I Riverboat, and other artifacts certainly gave authenticity to the site, but what made it most compelling was the very poignant and realistic sound track.

USS Yorktown. Originally planned to be named the Bon Homme Richard, she
was renamed Yorktown while still under under construction, to commemorate
the USS Yorktown lost at the Battle of Midway in June 1942

Tracy and Dorothy Brown, Yvonne's parents, on the flight deck of USS Yorktown
The Cooper River bridge is in the background

The USS Clagmore, with a container ship in the background, leaving Charleston harbor

The destroyer USS Laffey, tied up next to the Yorktown in Charleston harbor

A Mark 1 river patrol boat, used in Viet Nam, at the true-to-scale Viet Nam-era Navy
Support Base exhibit at Patriot's Point in Mt. Pleasant, SC, on Charleston Harbor

Though there is much to see in Charleston and environs there are several small towns within one to one-and-a-half hours that offer delightful day trips. Beaufort and Georgetown are two of our favorites. Beaufort is located seventy miles south of Charleston. A once prosperous shipping center, the town has many beautiful antebellum homes. There is a pretty park that fronts the harbor and unique shops and eateries in the historic downtown. A number of movies have been filmed here including The Big Chill, Forest Gump, and The Prince of Tides.

Mike, Dorothy, Yvonne and Tracy in the waterfront park in Beaufort, SC

One of the beautiful residential streets in Beaufort, lined with Live Oak trees

It doesn't say "NO SWIMMING" but that probably goes without saying.
(Swimming may be one of those things that annoys the alligators.)

Though we sold our last boat several years ago, "Capt. Mike" still loves the
water and always seems to be drawn to harbors and boats of all sizes and types.

Located on US Highway 17 sixty miles north of Charleston is Georgetown which, like Beaufort, is located on the inner-coastal waterway, protected but with easy access to the Atlantic Ocean, making both of them ideal port cities. Georgetown is the third-oldest city in South Carolina. A number of restaurants sit right on the harbor and offer amazing water views. An antiquarian bookstore nestles next to a florist and gift shop. The Rice Museum, commemorating the area's history as the rice production center of the colonies from 1750 until the end of slavery, is situated in the Old Market Building, built circa 1842. If you enjoy bed-&-breakfast stays, make your reservations in Georgetown at the DuPre House, which dates to 1740.

The Old Market Building on Front Street in Georgetown,
SC houses the Rice Museum

The Strand on Front Street is a beautiful old theatre, still in use today

A view of the harbor at Georgetown, SC, taken from a window at the
5 Rivers Tavern and Grill, 815 Front Street, Georgetown, SC

The wharf and harbor at Georgetown

After enjoyable days of sightseeing in and around Charleston, we returned to James Island County Park just in time for the evening light spectacular. The park is noted for its elaborate Christmas light display. 2014 marks the 25^th anniversary of the Holiday Festival of Lights. There are over 700 displays and two million lights. The drive-through displays are incredible, but there is another section of the park where one can walk among the lights and experience the artistic and engineering feats. Another creative element is the sculpture made of 50 tons of sand. Seasonal shops, visits with Santa, a holiday train, and a Victorian carousel all add to the experience.