Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Branson on Steroids

“Smoky Mountain Jamboree” in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, was the second of three FROG rallies that we hosted for Mike’s brother Bob and sister-in-law Cindy as she continues her treatments on her way to wellness.  Bob and Cindy are looking forward to being back on the road in early spring; Mike and I have had the opportunity to meet many friendly FROGS as we stepped in temporarily to host several rallies that had already been scheduled.

We found it interesting that our next door neighbors at home were planning a trip to Pigeon Forge at about the same time that we were scheduled to be there.  Once we got there, our coinciding travel plans were no longer a surprise as apparently the entire population of the United States had planned a trip to the Smoky Mountains in October!  If you’ve ever experienced the crowds in Branson, Missouri, picture it with a lot more visitors because of the National Park…it truly does feel like Branson on steroids.  October is the peak season in the park due to the magnificent colors of fall, and the traffic jams attest to it.  The traffic was unreal.  One day it took us forty-five minutes to go a mile and a half.  We left early one morning to go up into the park -apparently not an original idea as it took an hour and a half to reach the park entrance - a mere seven miles from our campground.   Realistically, there isn’t much that can be done to ease the congestion.  There isn’t room to widen the road because it is bounded by theatres and restaurants in Pigeon Forge and creeks, rivers and mountains as you approach the park.  Besides, the point is to protect the beauty and the integrity of the park. Once you enter the park and start up the mountains, traffic seems like a small price to pay for all the majestic beauty.
October is the busiest month of the year at Great Smoky Mountain National Park because
of the beautiful leaves. We were told we were there about a week early for the peak colors. 


On the "loop drive" around Cade's Cove on an overcast day. The traffic was so heavy on
this one-way, 11-mile drive that it took us a little over 5 1/2 hours to complete the loop.

The blue haze does, indeed, give the appearance of smoke over the mountains
 
Barn in the old Cade's Cove settlement.  The overhang was used to store equipment. It also
allowed a wagon to be pulled under the roof to load hay into, or retrieve hay from, the loft.
One of several original churches and cemeteries in Cade's Cove. Note that it is
built on poles of different heights to accommodate the slope of the ground


The Greg-Cable house in Cade's Cove.

Another homestead in the Cade's Cove area
John Cable's Mill. The mill is still operated by the National Park Service and grinds
corn meal and wheat flour that is sold in the gift shops in the Cade's Cove area
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park draws twice the number of visitors as any other national park.  Surprisingly, the Grand Canyon is a distant second in terms of visitors.
A long line of traffic enters the park at the Gatlinburg Visitors Center

The parking lot is full, and cars park on both sides of the 7-mile long road from Newfound Gap to
Clingman's Dome, the highest peak in the entire Smoky Mountains, at 6,643 feet above sea level.
So many people...lines stretch for a block, just to use the restrooms at Clingman's Dome.
The park exists thanks to a group of conservationists in the 1920s who worked together to save the last remaining old growth trees east of the Mississippi.  A unique coalition was formed including Tennessee and North Carolina state governments, the federal government, John D. Rockefeller Jr. and private citizens to raise money to purchase land.  The Park was established in 1934, and much of the work on infrastructure – roads, trails, walls, and “comfort stations” was done by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).  In 1940 President Franklin Roosevelt dedicated the Great Smokey Mountains National Park at a CCC-built overlook at Newfound Gap, which provides stunning views of both Tennessee and North Carolina.

This stone "stage" was built by the CCC for the park dedication ceremony. President
Franklin Roosevelt conducted the park dedication ceremony on this stage in 1940.
 
The Tennessee/North Carolina state line runs right across the top of Newfound Gap
 
The view from Newfound Gap, looking east into North Carolina
The Smokies were given their name by the Cherokee who called them Shaconage, meaning ”the place of blue smoke.” The natural bluish haze is the result of hydrocarbons released by vegetation.  The diversity of flora, fauna, and fungi is amazing.  In fact, the United Nations has designated the park as an International Biosphere Reserve.
Newfound Gap early in the morning.  That is fog hanging low in the valley below us

Hiking up the steep final half-mile to Clingman's Dome, the highest spot in
the Smokies at 6,643 feet.  The valley below us is still shrouded in fog.

The observation tower at Clingman's Dome is accessed by a long, circular ramp
View from the observation tower at Clingman's Dome

It was windy and cold the morning we were on the observation tower, but the
views were awesome.  Our backs are to the north, where Pigeon Forge is located

Abundant rainfall, averaging 85 inches annually, and mild temperatures contribute to the park’s diversity.  Some 900 billion gallons of water flow through the park’s river system and eventually drain into the Gulf of Mexico.
The Little Pigeon River, high in the mountains.  This bubbling
stream can become a raging torrent after a heavy rain.
The Appalachian Trail extends from Mount Katahdin in Maine to Springer
Mountain in Georgia, and runs right over the top of Clingman's Dome
Yvonne is proud of the fact that she hiked the entire width of the Appalachian Trail
One evening we discovered how rain in the mountains can cause flash flooding downstream.  Several of us were in Pigeon Forge enjoying the dancing waters fountain at The Island, a new entertainment complex, when we received a phone call from Rex McCarter, the owner of Riverbend Campground (and a wonderful gentleman and terrific host.)  He told us we had better return to the campground because rain in the mountains was causing the Little Pigeon River to rise, and some of the RVs might need to be moved to higher ground!   We jumped into the truck and, as Mike drove, I started to make phone calls – many to no avail.  We realized we needed to remind folks to 1) carry their phones with them; 2) make sure they are turned on; and 3) answer the phone even if you don’t recognize the number that is calling.
Riverbend Campground, Pigeon Forge, TN...our base camp for the FROG "Smoky
Mountain Jamboree" rally.  Many thanks to Rex McCarter, the owner, for all of his kindness.
 
Our camp site at Riverbend Campground
 
The Little Pigeon River as it runs past the campground. On the night that the flash flood
occurred, the river reached the concrete pads that you see on the left side of the picture.
In the end, only three RVs needed to be moved and Rex graciously found those campers sites on higher ground.  The water receded almost as quickly as it rose.  Within a few hours it was no longer a threat, and by the next morning it was nearly back to normal.  Everyone was very gracious in assisting their neighbors, nobody was hurt and none of the RVs were damaged, but I’m sure that in the future, we’ll all be more alert to the possibility of distant weather having a local impact.
Did I mention heavy traffic?  This is on Pigeon Forge Parkway at Apple Valley Road.
 
The entire Pigeon Forge area was decorated with fall scenes like this.  Note the wheels on
the wagon are round hay bales.  The horse - and many other animals in other displays
around town - is constructed with a metal frame stuffed with corn stalks.
The Island is a fairly new entertainment center in the heart of Pigeon Forge, so named because the Little Pigeon River splits and goes around it on both sides, making it truly an island.  The Margaritaville Café is there, and in October, Jimmy Buffet opened a section of his new hotel.  The Island also boasts several purveyors of moonshine, featuring free samples of the myriad flavors that they sell.  The current number one selling flavor is apple pie. (If your moonshine is apple pie-flavored, is it really moonshine?)  Sweet treats more your style?  Select your favorite yummy cupcake from The Sweet Shop of the South, the winner of season six of Cup Cake Wars.  I can personally recommend the Bohemian Wedding Cake.  (I can also tell you Mike's favorite flavor of moonshine, but we won’t go there…).
Yep, lots of traffic.  This is on Pigeon Forge Parkway near the Titanic Exhibit...note
the two smokestacks of the ship on the horizon, directly above the blue Chevrolet.
In the center courtyard of The Island is the dancing waters extravaganza with synchronized lights and music. It was designed by the same individual who created the dancing water fountain at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.  A landmark feature of The Island is the gigantic 200-foot tall, brightly lighted Ferris wheel.

Margaritaville Island Hotel, across the street from the Margaritaville Café

200 foot tall Ferris wheel at The Island

FROGS everywhere...even the characters on this kids' ride at The Island

Mike and Yvonne at The Island

The Dancing Waters fountain, designed by the same person who designed the
fountain at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, "performs" on the hour and the half-hour
The FROGS had great fun at a number of music and variety shows. Most shows included an eclectic mix of entertainment, from animal acts to jugglers to magicians, as well as musical numbers.  The music represented a wide genre from country to Broadway.  Each show included some type of salute to military personnel.  Lighting and special effects were an integral part of each show.  The Hatfields & McCoys show was a dinner theatre.  We also attended the Country Tonite show, the Smoky Mountain Opry, and the Comedy Barn.  I found it surprising that the venues allowed you to take still photographs during the performances, as long as you didn’t make video or audio recordings of the acts.  All the shows were fun (albeit just a little hokey at times) and there was something of interest for everyone.
The Hatfields & McCoys Dinner Theater is a fun place
 
Smoky Mountain Opry.  On display in the lobby are costumes worn by many
famous performers, including one worn by Elvis Presley 
 
The Comedy Barn
 
FROGS love to eat, and group dinners at local restaurants Calhoun’s and Johnny Carino’s were very popular...and the meals at both restaurants were delicious.

Between the beauty of the mountains, the fun evening entertainment, and the chance to meet new folks and re-connect with old friends, Pigeon Forge provided us with more new Road Stories. 






 

  
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Sunday, November 2, 2014

Return to Avalon


“Time it was, and what a time it was it was; a time of innocence; a time of confidences.   Long ago…it must be…I have a photograph.    Preserve your memories; they’re all that’s left you!”

                                                    Bookends”, Simon and Garfunkle’s Greatest Hits
Denise, Debbie, Patty, Debbie, Kathe, and C.J.
We thought we were so clever and hilarious

I don’t feel forty - well perhaps some body parts might feel that and more - but the essence that is me doesn’t feel any different than that seventeen year old who was a freshman at Central Methodist College in 1970.  So how could it possibly be our fortieth class reunion?  It may be Central Methodist University today but for generations of students it will always be CMC - a very special place.

“The more things change the more they stay the same.” (Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr, French novelist, as quoted by John Knowles in A Separate Peace)  The town itself, Fayette, Missouri, is still struggling to stay alive in a commuter-age society.  In ’74 there was still a drugstore with a lunch counter.  You could buy a bottle of aspirin or a pimento cheese sandwich. Today that building houses Emmet’s, a fine dining establishment owned by a CMC alumnus.  On the same side of the town square there was a movie theater. The theater marquee was the motif used in the yearbook our senior year. The building has long been abandoned as a theater; the marquee is gone.  Chenoweth’s Clothing, an upscale clothing store, hasn’t been in existence for decades. Now the square is home to a Dollar General store and a Subway but the presence of several bars remains constant. I chuckle as I see a riding lawn mower parked in an automobile parking space on the square. On Saturday mornings during my freshman and sophomore years, an old man sold carp from the back of an ancient truck. By my junior year he was no longer present. I often wondered what became of him. One of my most distinctive memories was hearing the call of the rag-picker on early misty mornings just at daybreak in the alleyway behind my dorm, Howard-Payne South. The campus was heated by coal furnaces with hot water radiators in each room. On the fourth floor the only way to regulate the temperature was to throw open a window. In the early morning mist the distinctive clop, clop, clop of the horse’s hooves would announce the presence of the grizzled old black man, faithfully making his rounds. He, too, disappeared sometime during my college days. But much like many of our experiences, I can’t remember exactly when.  I guess it is just as well that sometimes we don’t’ know when something will happen “for the last time” or when we will see someone “for the final time.”  It would probably be so poignant that we, ourselves, would cease to exist.
View of one side of the town square from the front gate of CMU.
Gazebo at the Howard County Courthouse on the town square in Fayette
The oldest building in Fayette, ca. 1830. It was originally a hatter's shop
Front window of the old drugstore, now Emmet's Kitchen & Tap.
The original soda fountain is still there; now, it is their bar
Fayette is still very much "Small Town America"
The Sinclair station harkens back to days gone by. Even today, an
attendant still pumps your gas and washes your windshield

 

Since it is homecoming the store windows around the square are emblazoned with sorority, fraternity, and various other college groups’ artistic endeavors.  The ideas and the art work remain much the same after all these years. The college band - still a pride and joy - marches with piccolos held high in the homecoming parade.


Window decorated by Zeta Psi Lambda, my old sorority,
for Homecoming 2014


Zeta float.  The artwork on the window and the float hasn't changed much in 40 years


Zeta Psi Lambda - the Zeta sisters - ca. 1973

2014 Homecoming - Bonnie (B.J.), friend and Zeta sister

2014 Homecoming parade


The CMU Marching Band, 2014


We go to the football game to show support, but mostly to hear the band and chat. Our group was not really an athletic bunch.  It is neither unexpected nor particularly disappointing that our team loses. It is only important that we are there together.
 
What originally brought ”us” together - a group of disparate teenagers finding their way - was a small, insulated campus with brilliant and caring Professors.  At the time, I doubt that any of us realized that "brilliant" and "caring" were sometimes mutually exclusive qualities in the world of academia.  “Dean T” and Mrs. Thogmorton were always there for us.  There were good people in all departments:  Dr. Warren in Foreign Languages, Dr. Sunoo in History, Dr. Momberg in Science (more specifically, Geology), Dr. Smart in Education, and many others.  But the English Department was special.  The beloved Mrs. Forderhase; the contemplative Dr. Eidson; the reflective Dr. Diamond; the demanding Dr. Winegard; and the animated Dr. Geist were all passionate about language and literature.  Through their excitement and passion they helped us step into their world.  Through literature we travelled to ancient worlds and future worlds.  We started to comprehend that literature helps us to understand the depths and nuances of humanity, and therefore helped us understand a bit about ourselves.  Gangly, confused teenagers were allowed; no, encouraged; no, invited to step into a world that held the possibility of insight into human experience.  They helped us to understand that that our confusion and unknown needs were a part of our own humanity.  They guided us, prodded us, goaded us. But most importantly they felt us worthy to join them in their Avalon.
Graduation luncheon, 1974  (l to r)  Dorothy and Tracy Brown
(Yvonne's parents); Yvonne; and  "Dean T" and Mrs. Thogmorton
(1 to r)  Mrs. Forderhase with students Joanie, Susan and Yvonne on a trip to England, 1974
(l to r)  Students Joanie and Susan with Dr. Winegard on a trip to England, 1974

Mrs. Kay Winegard, CMU's Registrar, is shown in her office holding
one of the many Barbie dolls from her extensive collection
 
Dr. Joe Geist, Professor Emeritus and Supervisor of the Collection
Ashby-Hodge Gallery of American Art, Homecoming 2014


I respect and love my mentors as I do my friends and fellow graduates of the class of 1974.  There are a surprising number of our peers who are no longer bound by this earth.  The majority of our class was not present at this reunion due to life’s daily demands.  But Wanda, Jane, and Lita were there in spirit as I stepped onto the fourth floor of Howard-Payne (which, by the way, is now a men’s floor in a co-ed dorm.  This is at a school where “girls” had to sign in by 9:30 p.m. on week nights at the dorm mother’s desk.)  I pictured Kathe as I walked into Classic Hall, arguing some fine point in an assigned reading.  Classic Hall is no longer a dark warren of classrooms and Professors’ offices.  Now it has been revamped and is an inviting space that houses the Ashby-Hodge Gallery of American Art.  I felt C.J.'s presence by my side as I strolled the campus, philosophically reflecting that those trees dominating the grounds were mere saplings, just as we, too, were saplings in the early 1970s.

 
Yvonne and Lita, 1974
Yvonne and C.J. in Colorado, 1972.  Again, clever use of a sign!
Howard-Payne South, my home for four years
My world...a view of downtown Fayette from the 4th floor of Howard-Payne
Classic Hall. This building housed the English and Foreign Language Departments. Now
renovated, it houses the Ashby-Hodge Gallery of American Art and music practice rooms
John, Dr. Geist and Kathe in the Ashby-Hodge Gallery, 2009, our 35th reunion
Dr. Geist, John and Bonnie (B.J.) in the Ashby-Hodge Gallery, 2014, our 40th reunion
Cupples Hall / Smiley Library
Swinney Conservatory of Music...more popularly known as "the Conservatory"
Inman Student and Community Center, built on the former site of the Eire, the Student Union
T. Berry Smith Hall houses the History and Political Science Departments
These trees were mere saplings when we were students...my, how we've ALL
grown in 40 years.  To the right, partially obscured, is Stedman Hall of Science
I had the good fortune to spend Friday evening catching up with classmates at the All Alumni Social Hour at the restored Howard County Jail.  Saturday was spent on campus reminiscing with dear, dear friends.
The former Howard County jail, saved thanks to a Los Angeles investor
who bought the property from the county on eBay and restored it
David and Kathy, classmates from 1974, happily married all these many years
Kathy visits with former classmate John during the All Alumni Social Hour
We attended another alumni gathering after the Saturday
football game at the beautifully restored Rethwisch home
Not everyone made it back for our 40th reunion. This was a group of
friends who were here for our 35th reunion in 2009

 
Homecoming 2014 - The Class of 1974, 40 years after graduation
 
Bonnie (B.J. when we were in college), John and I briefly caught up on our current lives – current being relative when you are trying to cover forty years.  But a smile and a hug transported us back to our collective youth.  “What was” became “what is”.  None of us was old, nor fat, nor gray.  We were once again the vigorous, inquisitive truth-seekers of our youth.  For a moment in time we were eternally eighteen.  Bonnie is still the effervescent, feisty young woman, and John is forever “der Gelehrte".   Perhaps all of us have been tempered by life’s experiences.  No one goes through life unscathed, either physically or emotionally.  A Japanese proverb seems appropriate:  “Where the vessel was mended, it becomes stronger.”
John, Bonnie (B.J.) and Yvonne, Class of '74, at Homecoming 2014


The experiences and people of CMC are definitely not just part of the past because they are a part of who we are.  Those experiences and the people with whom we shared them are the warp of which our lives are woven.

Then....

...and now. 

 

Stroll down memory lane with old friends and you can be sure you'll resurrect your own remarkable Road Stories.