Saturday, May 30, 2015

World's Fastest Half-Mile


NASCAR, the National Association of Stock Car Auto Racing, was born out of the days when bootleggers and moonshiners would soup up their "stock" cars to be able to out-run law enforcement officers.  Today, NASCAR is the largest spectator sport in the United States, and names like Talladega, Darlington and Daytona are familiar to the legions of race fans.  So, too, is the Bristol Motor Speedway, but it could just as easily have been the Piney Flats Motor Speedway.
Bristol Motor Speedway, Bristol, TN

The Bruton Smith Building, across the parking lot from the track, houses corporate
offices, ticket sales and will-call windows, and the gift shop.  When you own the track,
you can name the building after yourself.
Rather than using numbers or letters, the seating areas in the grandstands
and terrace sections are named for NASCAR stars
Used by both vehicle and pedestrians, this entrance has a tunnel that goes under the
the track, allowing access even when there are race cars on the track.
When Carl Moore, Larry Carrier and R.G. Pope were getting ready to build the track, the site initially chosen was in Piney Flats, a small community seven miles south of the current location. But when the community learned that the track would sell beer during the races, they rejected the proposal and a dairy farm in Bristol was, instead, selected as the site for the new racetrack. The Bristol International Speedway, its original name, would seat 18,000 fans and the track was a one-half mile oval, more intimate, the builders thought, than the 1.5 mile track at the Charlotte Motor Speedway. The track opened in 1961 at a cost for 100 acres of farm land and construction of the track of approximately $600,000...roughly $4.73 million today, adjusting for inflation. The pole position for the first race held there - the Volunteer 500 - was claimed by driver Fred Lorenzen, with a speed of 79.225 mph. Seventeen year old country music star Brenda Lee sang the National Anthem before that first race.
Bristol Motor Speedway has seating for approximately 160,000 fans,
double the 80,000 seats in the Dallas Cowboys' stadium in Arlington, TX.
Standing in the infield, looking up at the luxury suites, including
the owner's suite, at the Bristol Motor Speedway

The venue has changed hands several times. It was sold after the 1976 season to businessmen Lanny Hester and Gary Baker. In the spring of 1978 the name was changed to Bristol International Raceway. In April 1982 Lanny Hester sold his half of the speedway to Warner Hodgdon. By July 1983, Hodgdon owned 100% of Bristol with the purchase of Gary Baker's share. Hodgdon named Larry Carrier, one of the original owners of the facility, as the track's General Manager. Less than three years later, on January 11, 1985, as a result of many of his other businesses hitting hard times, Hodgdon filed for bankruptcy. Larry Carrier formally took possession of the speedway and covered all outstanding debts. In 1996, O. Bruton Smith, the current owner, purchased Bristol International Raceway from Carrier for $26 million. Within a few months, the name had officially been changed to Bristol Motor Speedway.


Turns 1 and 2 from the owner's suite, and a view of some of the
52 luxury skyboxes on the backstretch that were added in 2002

View of the Turn 4 grandstands from the owner's suite.  Glass walls (where the
pillar is located at the end of the row of seats) separates the luxury skyboxes
resulting in a very open feeling and providing a panoramic view of the track.
The track has been improved and enlarged throughout its history. The racing surface has been completely re-built several times, most recently in 2007. Turns have been banked even more steeply than originally designed as the speed of the cars increased. (Our tour guide told us that the turns are banked about 24 degrees at the lower edge, increasing to 28 degrees near the wall.) One modification increased the length of the track from a half-mile or 2,640 feet to a distance of 2,814 feet (0.533 miles) at the marks. 
Turn 2 at BMS.  Our tour included a couple of laps around the track,
just to get the feel of how steep the banked turns really are.
Turns 1 and 2 from the backstretch grandstands. The tire shop is the
building in the center, and pit row is behind the barrier, between the
large letters on the track and the white tent.
The Winner's Circle. This area is actually on the roof of the building
that is used for drivers' meeting, and the winning car is driven
up a ramp at the side of the building to the Winner's Circle.  


Seating capacity has been increased as well. Originally designed for 18,000, the track seated 71,000 by the time Bruton Smith bought it in 1996. He immediately added 15,000 seats, bringing it up to 86,000. In August 2002, work began on a new backstretch grandstand that would increase the track’s seating capacity to an estimated 155,000. The backstretch now includes three levels of seating and features 52 luxury skybox suites. By August of 2005, construction was complete on the last 35 luxury suites at Bristol Motor Speedway. Between the grandstand seating and the 87 luxury suites, the total seating capacity is right at 160,000. 
Inside the owner's luxury suite at Bristol Motor Speedway
The bar in the owner's suite is very well stocked
Stained glass skylight in the owner's suite
View of turn 3 and the Winner's Circle from the owner's suite
This building in the infield is a full-service tire shop.  The photo was
taken from the front seating area of the owner's suite.  Bush's Beans,
a Tennessee company, is a major sponsor.

In the Spring of 2013 Kyle Busch set a new qualifying record, taking just 14.813 seconds to make a 129.535 mph lap around the half-mile. Compare that to the 79.225 mph qualifying lap that earned Fred Lorenzen the pole position in 1961.

A sign over the vehicle entrance to the track reads "Welcome to the Last Great Colosseum." For fifty-four years, the Gladiators of NASCAR have been doing battle in the town of Bristol that sits straddling the Tennessee / Virginia state line.
Vehicle entrance to Bristol Motor Speedway.  This is the only
way to get race cars and other vehicles into the track

The site also features a NHRA-sanctioned drag strip named THUNDER VALLEY.
These are the luxury suites looking down at the drag strip's starting line.
A view down the drag strip from the starting line.  After a quarter-mile race, drivers have
an additional half mile of track to "shut down".  The track record speed is 326.79 mph.
Poster advertising the National Hot Rod Association's THUNDER VALLEY
NATIONALS racing at Bristol, June 19-21, 2015
In the fall of 2016, BMS will host a football game between Virginia Tech and Tennessee.
The entire infield will be covered with turf.  Planning for this game  began almost 15 years ago.
The "countdown clock" located in the lobby of the Bruton Smith Building features an
artist's concept of what the track will look like when converted to a football stadium
As we bid farewell to our tour guide, we asked, as we usually do, for a recommendation for a local restaurant, and were directed to Ridgewood Barbecue, a small place up in the hills outside of town, with the assurance that it had "the best barbecue in all of Tennessee."  ESPN, Good Morning America, People magazine and USA Today all agree, as do the mob of people waiting for a table.
Ridgewood Barbecue serves award-winning food that has been
featured on television as well as in many print articles
Memphis-style sandwich with slaw on top.  The beans and fries
are the smaller serving, about half the size of their normal portions.

For the folks in this eastern Tennessee city, the whole experience can be summed up and explained in just three words:  "It's Bristol, baby!"  It's the World's Fastest Half-Mile.  And it is a wealth of Road Stories

Bristol Motor Speedway...the World's Fastest Half-Mile








Learn more about Bristol Motor Speedway and Thunder Valley at their web site http://www.bristolmotorspeedway.com/home/





Sunday, May 10, 2015

The Hewer and Six Tons

"I keep straining my ears to hear a sound; maybe someone is digging underground. Or have they given up and all gone home to bed; thinking those who once existed must be dead." 
                                                                                                                                             Bee Gees (1967)
 
Possibly no other product or occupation has had a greater impact on the economy and the social fabric of a region as coal and coal mining has had on southwestern West Virginia.
 
As early as 1679 Father Louis Hennipin, a Franciscan missionary, noted the significant presence of coal.  The original impetus was the need for coal to heat water for processing salt. The first commercial coal company incorporated in 1834. Transportation was a major problem for the coal industry until 1870s when the Chesapeake and Ohio railway reached the rich Kanawha and New River coal fields, facilitating the growth of the coal industry and coal towns (also known as coal camps) in West Virginia.

A miner, dressed for work in the early 20th century, holds his lunch pail under his arm.
The whip around his neck indicates that he drove a team, hauling coal out of the mine 
Coal towns were located in relatively isolated areas and often the large coal companies created not only the work structure but the social structure as well.  Between 1817 and about 1930 coal essentially was mined by hand. Typically, mines operated six days per week, 20 to 24 hours per day, with two 10-hour shifts or three 8-hour shifts.  Work was difficult and dangerous. The companies expected miners to produce ten tons each per shift but the typical miner produced four to six tons.  Earning just 20 cents for each ton produced, it is no wonder miners found themselves, in the words of Tennessee Ernie Ford, "...another day older and deeper in debt."
 
A good way to get a better appreciation of the challenges faced by miners is a visit to the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine.  In 1960 the town of Beckley, West Virginia, purchased the low seam coal mine which had operated in Beckley from 1890 to1910. This exhibition allows a glimpse into the life of a coal miner by offering tours, lead by a former miner, into the mine. 

Starting into the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine on a small train

Our guide, Larry, was a retired miner, and a great story-teller

One ton of coal.  Miners were expected to dig 10 tons each per day, but usually
averaged 6-7 tons. They were paid 20 cents per ton in the early 20th century.

You can see the dark seam of coal is only about 24-30 inches high.  The ceiling has been
raised for tours; it would have been much lower, requiring miners to lay on their sides to work.


The ceiling was "pinned" with long bolts and steel plates to keep it from collapsing.

The Exhibition Coal Mine also features buildings which have been saved and relocated from actual coal camps in order to showcase living conditions in a coal company town.  Since most coal towns were found in remote locations with no other infrastructure, the coal companies and the "coal barons" would build the entire town...houses to rent to miners, the company stores which stocked and sold the only goods available from food to mining equipment.  Miners had to furnish their own clothing, boots, hats or helmets, carbide lamps, picks, shovels, breast augurs (drills) and dynamite to blast the coal loose.  (He even had to supply the fuel that he burned in his lamp.  Often, to save money, the grease left over from his morning bacon went into the lamp.)  Since the towns were nearly self-sufficient, companies started paying their workers and operating their stores with company "script" instead of U.S. currency.  Paper script was initially issued, beginning around 1855.  From the 1920's until as recently as the 1950's,  metal tokens were used, each stamped with its value and with the name of the coal company that issued it...and it could only be used to trade in that company's store.  It has been reported that at one time, the company store in Thurmond, WV did $6,000 in sales every week, and did not ever accept a single piece of U.S. currency.  So again, in the lyrics of Tennessee Ernie Ford's ballad, the miner could easily "...owe my soul to the company store." 
 
Bedroom of a married miner's house.  Houses were built with one or two
bedrooms for a family, and were rented from the company for $4 per month.


Living room in a married miner's house.  The family was responsible for
getting their own furniture.

Kitchens were fairly large, but also served as the dining room

A single miner would rent a one room house for $2 per month.
Every house in a coal camp did, however, have its own outhouse.
By contrast, the coal mine superintendent's house was large and luxurious.
The superintendent's house came furnished, but if he needed something
more, he could just requisition it from the company store.

In addition to running the mine, the superintendent was the mayor of the
coal town, responsible for everything that went on in town.

Supeintendents were sometimes transferred from one coal town to another.
The miner's lunch pail had three sections.  Water was carried in the bottom section.  The middle
section held his lunch or dinner, and the top section might contain a piece of pie or some biscuits.

Miner's cap with a "teapot" lamp.  Oil was put in the "pot" part, and a wick was inserted
in the "spout" part, and lit.  Imagine an open flame in a mine that could contain methane gas. 

Miners bought all their own tools from the "company store".
 



The coal town would have a barber/beauty shop with a shoeshine stand.  The tall device
in the center of the room is a hair curler for permanent waves.

Coal camps had post offices.  Often, the Post Office Department would request that
a town change its name because another town already had the same name.
Every coal town had a doctor's office.  Injuries and death were frequent

Life in a coal company town depended upon the benefice of the owners.  Some built schools, churches, and theaters while others pinched every penny.  In order to provide some recreation in an otherwise dreary existence, some coal towns had a town orchestra or band; most  had a baseball team, which competed against teams from other coal camps.
 
Churches were an important part of the social fabric of the coal town

Schools were built for the miners' children.  Ironically, many miners were African-American
and while they worked side-by-side with white miners, schools were segregated.




Most coal towns had company-sponsored baseball teams
that played against other towns' teams
Working in the coal industry was difficult and miners felt that they didn't have a representative voice in matters of safety.  The United Mine Workers of America (UMWA) was organized on January 25,1890.  Miners wanted better working conditions and better pay.  Safety was always a concern...underground explosions were commonplace.  In 1907 one of the deadliest explosions occurred at the Fairmont Coal Company's mine in the Marion County town of Monongah.  Some 361 men died (the total is an estimate because was there was no accurate accounting of who was actually inside the mine) leaving behind 1,000 children.  Between 1912 and 1921 there was so much violence between miners and companies that some called the series of conflicts "the second Civil War."  The violence did not end until 1933 with the passage in Washington, DC of the National Industrial Recovery Act.


This was called a "kettle bottom" but miners referred to it as a widow-maker. A petrified
tree trunk, embedded in a coal seam, could fall, killing a miner if it hit him. It would be
brought out and displayed in front of the miner's home as a tribute to him.

This banner would be displayed at funerals of miners in Glen White (Raleigh County).
If a miner died, his wife had 2 weeks to marry another miner or she had to move out of
his company-owned home.  Glen White was a coal town with a large Gaelic population
Coal towns grew up in mountainous regions in West Virginia along the rivers and rail lines. They thrived while coal supported a growing industrial nation and the war production efforts during World War I and World War II.   As the country turned to other energy sources the coal industry took a dramatic economic hit, as did the towns built for the express purpose of supporting that industry. Some towns have survived while many have disappeared from the landscape.
 
Hinton is an historic coal and railway town on the New River in West Virginia.  It was once a main terminal for the C&O Railway, and featured a roundhouse and engine repair facility.  Hinton is the county seat of Summers County.  Today, one of its greatest connections to the railroad is a wonderful museum founded nearly a quarter of a century ago and still run by retired railway employee Dorothy Boley.


Dorothy Boley worked for the C&O (later, the CSX) Railroad for 43 years.  She
founded the Hinton Railroad Museum to keep memories of the past alive.  Now
in her 90's, Dorothy works at the museum every day and is a font of knowledge.
 
The museum houses a set of carvings (about 120 pieces) depicting every job performed on the
C&O Railroad. The figures are all about 18" tall. The central figure, John Henry, the "steel
driving man" who out-hammered the steam driver, is a little larger than the other figures.
 
The carvings are the work of the late Charlie Permelia, a local artist and former
railroad worker.  It took about 12 years to complete the "story in sculpture"
Parmelia used about 100 different types of wood in his carvings, all native to
West Virginia - primarily walnut, cherry and ash because of their color.
Walnut was used to carve the Black workers, cherry to depict Asian workers,
and ash for the white workers on the railroad gangs.
Conductor's caps and uniforms on display in the museum at Hinton
At one time, the C&O used "stewardesses" on some
of its passenger trains. The idea didn't catch on.
The depot at Hinton, West Virginia
 


The little town of Thurmond, which never exceeded a population of 500, was once the most important rail station and depot in the eastern U.S. due to the amount of freight handled.  In 1910 the depot handled four million tons of freight.  In the same year 76,000 passengers passed through the station on one of the fifteen daily passenger trains.

At one time, Thurmond had no roads accessing the town.  It could be reached only
by train or by water.  The town is located on the New River.

A CSX freight train rolls through Thurmond.  Never larger than 500 in population
today Thurmond has only a handful of residents, but Amtrak still stops there.

The National Bank of Thurmond, once a thriving financial institution,
is now an empty shell in a near ghost-town.

"Downtown" Thurmond, WV today.  Pretty, but empty.
The Bee Gees lyrics commemorated a coal mine disaster in 1945.  There have been at least 50 major disasters since 1886.  Many safety precautions have been put in place and mechanization has replaced much of the manual labor.  In 1947 there were 450,000 miners employed; today, the coal industry provides some 30,000 direct jobs in West Virginia1.  Fifty-three of West Virginia's fifty-five counties have coal and coal mining operations to some degree1.  But as the coal towns and coal camps disappear, so does a distinct way of life.  Thankfully, Beckley and many other places in the state are preserving the heritage of the coal industry in West Virginia. 
 
"Hewer" is a term for the miner who actually undercuts and extracts the coal from the seam.  A competent hewer could mine about six tons of coal a day...and he could provide us with tons of great Road Stories. 

 
 

1.  Source:  West Virginia Coal Mining Facts, produced by the West Virginia Office of Miners' Health, Safety and Training    http://www.wvminesafety.org/wvcoalfacts.htm

 
Special thanks to our guide, Larry, at the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine.  A former miner himself, he was a wealth of knowledge on the history and facts of coal mining in West Virginia.

 
Some of the statistical data in this blog comes from the book King Coal by Stan Cohen, published by Quarrier Press.